The Republic of Belarus is snuggled between Poland, Russia and Ukraine. When the Soviet Union fell apart and its component nations struggled to cope with the effects of burgeoning capitalism, Belarus closed its borders, retreated into its shell and tried to pretend nothing had changed. Although symbols of communism were torn down long ago in countless Eastern cities, those in Minsk remains, earning it the reputation of being a living museum of the former USSR.
It is certainly the best preserved Soviet city in the world today. Lenin stands proudly in the central square that still bears his name and there are monuments, statues, hammers, sickles and communist stars at every turn.
Minsk was almost entirely obliterated in World War II (just five buildings were left standing) but Stalin saw the possibility of rebuilding it from scratch on a grand scale, to be a model metropolis of the future.
It is still here: endless wide boulevards of monolithic edifices, elegant parks, a magnificent underground transport system. A small pink plastic token (zheton) buys a trip into the latter, a magical underworld and dimly lit shadow-land of often exquisite artwork. Check out the bas-reliefs, frescoes, tiles, stained glass, pillars, statuettes and coloured lights as well as the simply unmissable clock between the platforms at Oktyabrskaya station.
Despite these powerful reminders of the past, it doesn't take long before perceived notions of Belarus as a depressing, unwelcoming world of corruption and espionage with a shackled people begin to seem somewhat exaggerated.
Belarussians are warm, friendly, relaxed folks who view their own particular situation with humour and a calm dignity. Citizens of Minsk are vociferously proud of the capital and keen to extol its virtues to visitors. The city is as spotless as a propaganda poster and as safe and efficient as Geneva.
Minsk is not entirely behind the times either, as anyone arriving at its gleaming station or visiting its new state-of-art glass and granite national library will testify.
The main drag, Nezavisimosti, as long and straight as a Roman road, has more than its fair share of pavement cafes. This mixture of styles and period is sometimes a dizzying one.
Gorky Park is the largest of the city's green spaces, amid the old-fashioned candyfloss stalls, dodgy dodgems, balloon bending booths and creaking Ferris wheel.
